Madeira’s quiet West

Raposeira de São João is situated in the quiet West of Madeira, in the sunny coucil of Calheta. It is a good base for all kinds of activities that can make your stay in Madeira so attractive.

sunrise over our peaceful valley in Western Madeira
View from our garden: a band of clouds bends around the western tip of Madeira
A sectacular view from our garden: a rain shower over the ocean off the coast of West Madeira.

Where the more easterly villages of the Council of Calheta and the lower area’s are gradually becoming more urban, Fajã da Ovelha, the village our house belongs to, is designated as a rural area, where building is very restricted. Especially valleys like ours, officially called ‘area rural’, have a ban on new construction work. Only existing – often abandoned- houses can be renovated.

Also, the limit of the ‘Parque Natural da Madeira’, Madeira’s Natural Park, lies at the bottom of our valley, about 150 meters from our house. This guarantees a free view of the wooded valley and the Atlantic Ocean. The large image at the top of this page will give you an impression, however, the reality is even more stunning. West Madeira at is very best! In the small streams, that abound in the area, wild watercress grows, proof of the excellent quality of the surface waters. The beard mosses that grow in many trees are an indication of the complete absence of air pollution in Madeira.

Fajã da Ovelha vanuit de lucht. Ons huis staat in het rode cirkeltje
Ons adembenemend uitzicht.
Kaartje van het Parque Natural da Madeira. Ons huis ligt aan de rand, in de rode cirkel.

Soalheira: a sunny place

The house is situated in a hamlet that has the beautiful name of ‘Soalheira de Baixo’ meaning ‘lower sunny place’ and it lies in an area of spectacular beauty, with deep rugged gorges, cut by brooks and small rivers, lined with tiny farming fields that have been glued against the steep slopes. The area breathes peace and quiet and radiates the pure natural and wild beauty of quiet west Madeira. The stunning vistas from the house and grounds reflect all that beauty!

The surrounding villages and hamlets have a lot of natural beauty to offer, too. Ponta do Pargo, Paúl do Mar and Jardim do Mar are within easy reach. They all have their own caracter and their own vistas. Make a walk to the viewpoint of Garganta Funda and see how breathtakingly beautiful the steep coast is. The vertical high waterfall of Garganta Funda is beautiful beyond words. It is too high and narrow to make a decent photo of it.

de vuurtoren van Ponta do Pargo pinkt in de avondschemering.
De vuurtoren van Ponta do Pargo on the Soutwestern tip of Madeira
Past the Garganta funda viewpoint at the tip of Southwest Madeira you have breathtaking views of the wild west coast.

Paúl do Mar: a small plain near the sea

Paúl do Mar is the perfect spot for sundowners. Even in iffy weather often a good spot, as the high rockwall that has Paúl’s back blocks the sometimes fresh northerlies. The sunsets are often spectacular. We have made it a tradition to take a picture of all our B&B guests against the setting sun. All these pictures are published on our own ‘Wall of Fame‘.

Een glas bij zonsondergang op het terras van Bar de Pedra, Paúl do Mar
West Madeira often gets spectaular seas after an Atlantic storm passes far out at sea.
genieten van de late middagzon in Paúl do Mar
Prachtige zonsondergang met wolken..
..soms met dramatische luchten...
De zonsondergang kan heel mooi zijn in Paúl do Mar
In winter, the most spectacular sunsets are in West Madeira
...en de wall of fame blijft bijna leeg achter...

the old main road: now a pleasant walk

The old main road from the old days, when there was no motorized traffic, that you can pick up from the main road that links the church of Fajã da Ovelha with the express road, forms, togehter with te Levada Nova, a stunning circular walk that can be easily done in 3 to 3.5 hours. It gives a good impression of Laurissilva, one of the last surviving primeval forests on European territory. But also, you get a nice impression of the small scale agriculture and the way people live in the quiet west of Madeira. Soon, we will publish a route description in this website.

wandelen meet vrienden over de oude voetweg van Fajã da Ovelha naar Maloeira
beek door het Laurissilva.
de bekende Levada Nova. Levensader voor de kleinschalige landbouw. Ook een super-wandelpad.

Jaardim do Mar: garden of the sea

From Paúl do Mar it is a short drive through the tunnel to Jardim do Mar, meaning Garden of the Sea. It is one of the gems of West Madeira. A flowering network of alleys shape this picturesque village that is absolutely worth a visit.
We have prepared a foder full of tips and possibilities. It is waiting for you in the house. There is also a guide with Levada walks for you to consult. For lovers of culture, the website of Madeira Cultura is certainly of interest.  This website gives an overview of all kinds of expositions, concerts, shows, musea and folkloric festivals in the Island. You won’t have enough time to do everything you’d like to do.

And over the varied and often overwhelming landscapes of peaceful western Madeira, there are the ever changing skies, cloudless of with wild clouds, that will take your breath away. We have gathered some of them in a photo gallery.

want to know more?

Would you like to see more of the island? There is a website that tells you all about Madeira and Porto Santo.

For more images you can go to (language selector top-right) or have a look at the webcams that are spread over the island. These can also come in handy on those days with iffy weather. Just look at the cams and see where the sun is out! The many micro-climates make it unlikely to not find the sun somewhere in the island. It is usually not a good idea to stay at home because of the weather, unless, of course, there is a weather warning wh9ich you can check in the website of the Portuguese meteoroligical Institute. Though West Madeira is one of the most beautiful parts of the island, the North coast is perhaps even wilder though it may have a little more rain. Also, do not forget to drive into the mountains, to maybe drive to the second highest peak Pico Areeiro or go have a home made Ginjinha (cherry liqueur) in a forgotten local bar somewhere in the hidden valley of Curral das Freiras.


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